Meeting pushed back a week due to inclement weather
Dave opened the meeting at 7:38pm.
Number of attendees: 13
New person:
Pam Anderson (Haddonfield)
Trained violin maker/repair
Working on a Cello
- Dave collecting membership fees. Remember $50 for club for the year
- Kevin and Dave worked to get Chuck Bender from Acanthus Workshop to come speak to the guild. Chuck will be here for the May meeting (May 3rd) and will be showing off the Bermuda Dovetail
- Note: Chuck is restarting the Acanthus Workshop school in Jim Thorpe, PA, after moving back here from Cincinnati
- Kevin going to The Woodwright’s School next week for a 5-day class. Anyone interested in old-time hand tools in excellent shape, let Kevin know, and he will pick them up from Ed Lebkin’s shop (above the Wood wright’s school). Contact Kevin at 856-630-2485 or kdrevik@yahoo.com, and give him your cellphone number so he can take a picture of the proposed tool and send it to you. You don’t need to provide advance money, Kevin can front you.
- Mike saw Dick Beckman over the weekend. Not doing as well, family going through some issues. Mike gave him the guild’s best wishes
- Salman showed his scroll saw skills
- Not noisy, not aggressive, so good for beginners
- Blade is small, fairly safe. It’s not going to take a finger off. The worst is a cut on the finger.
- Recommends pin less blades, held in place by tension. Salman prefers #5 blades for general, everyday use
- The bigger/longer the piece, the easier it is to hold, but the depth of the scroll saw will determine how long you can create it
- Three types of scroll saw blades
- Single tooth orientation (cut on down stroke)
- Reverse (some of teeth go the other way) – cleaner cut, but more vibration, since it is cutting up for some of the teeth. Ultra-reverse: every 3rd teeth goes the other way (cleaner cut, less vibration)
- Spiral blade: twisted blade, cutting surface on all sides/directions
- Good source of blades
- Lesley's Patterns
- Mike’s Workshop (South Dakota)
- Scrollers
- Cost: $22 for six dozen (72) Flying Dutchman blades. Recommended replacement time is every 30 minutes of constant cutting, but can get away with replacing them every hour, instead
- Straight cuts are hardest – easy to see deviation. Curves are more forgiving
- Standard way to start is to print out a pattern, spray adhesive and put on the wood.
- Problem with that method is that the only way to remove is with mineral spirits
- Salman prefers using painters tape before adhering the pattern as before, and then simply peeling it off after
- If you are doing something small, you will want to create a holding jig, to keep your fingers away from blade. Makes control a lot easier
- One of the key skills to learn is staying square in the cut (i.e. it isn’t wider at top vs bottom, etc.)
- Best way to do patterns, he suggests, is to use red outline for cut. Blade is black, shadow is black, so red line makes it easier to see
- Lots of free patterns on line (e.g., Steve Good). Google what you want, and see if it’s out there
- Cut out tree symbol on tablet stand. Once he saw it was chipping out in spots, he filled with epoxy. Looks great
- Discussion on tension to keep blade from wandering
- Various folks came up to try how to use the scroll saw
- Treasurer's Report (Dave):
- 18 paid members to date (counting the 3 checks he got tonight)
- Total in kitty $2,821.49
- Dave showed his sand shading and marquetry work (scroll saw technique). Top and bottom of tabletop. Used holly for leaves
- Next Meeting on Thursday, April 5th at 7:30pm. Mike R said he will have a speaker for the meeting
- The meeting concluded at 9:00pm.
